Financial Order of Operations
This is the holy grail of your financial life. This establishes your priorities and will give you clear goals to move towards. Every financial situation is different, and you may have unique situations that warrant small changes but in most scenarios, you should be able to establish where you stand currently, make a plan on how to get to the next step and move forward from there.
Step 1:
Deductibles Covered
Have enough cash on hand in order to cover your deductibles in case of an emergency.
Step 2:
Employer Match
Contribute to your retirement plan up to the employer match. (Otherwise, you’re leaving free money on the table)
Step 3:
3-month Emergency Fund
Hold 3 months’ worth of your expenses as an emergency fund. This should be in a high-yield savings account.
Step 4:
Pay off High-Interest Debt
Pay off debt with interest rates that are higher than roughly 8%. This should not include your mortgage or student loans.
Step 5:
6-month Emergency Fund
Build your emergency fund in your high-yield savings to 6-months (dual income household) or 9-months (single income household).
Step 6:
Max-Out Roth IRA & HSA
Max out your contributions to a Roth IRA & your HSA.
(Not everyone is eligible for these plans.)
Step 7:
Max-Out Retirement Accounts
Contribute the maximum to your employer sponsored plan or other pre-tax retirement accounts.
Step 8:
Hyper-Accumulation
Invest all excess cash in investment buckets whether that is the market, real estate or many other investments.
Step 9:
Low Interest Debt
This one is optional. If you are at this stage, you may be holding the debt strategically since you can make more in other investments.
How Much Should I have Saved to Retire?
This is based on the standard retirement age of 65, outlined as a percentage of your current salary. As your salary increases so does the amount you need saved.
.5x
1.5x
4.5x
10x
25x
Age 25 Age 35 Age 45 Age 55 Age 65
These figures are not only debatable based on living expenses in retirement and current income now, but this is the absolute ideal. If you will be spending less in retirement you may need to save less (but I wouldn’t bet the house on needing to spend less, because you would be surprised). People think they would spend less and, in my experience, they rarely do, this is because they now have more time and that is more time to spend money).
If you do some research into this topic people will often say figures that are drastically smaller, they are basing this off of the average retirement account. If you have the chance to get your financial future together now then you do not want to be planning on having a maximum retirement fund of $250k as is the current average. (Citation 1)
If you set yourself up well and consistently save there is no reason that you can’t get to these figures. The big factor in retirement planning is knowing how much you will spend in retirement (no one really knows). So, let’s just say that you want to keep your income coming in at the same levels you have it today. There is a rule in retirement planning that for you not to outlive your money you need to withdraw maximum around 4% of your portfolio each year.
Here is the math to how I got the numbers above:
Retirement age 65. Life expectancy 90, inflation 3%, average rate of return of 8%. (Safe number – avg return of S&P500 is about 10%)
In your first year of retirement you want to withdraw $100k (Gross) to support your living expenses and maintain your lifestyle. 4% is the maximum you should withdraw. Easy math . . . $100k is 4% of what number, you got it $2,500,000. That is how much money you need at age 65 to sustain a 100k lifestyle. Remember these are gross numbers so the cash you have in hand is probably closer to $80k anyways. On top of that – you will have expenses outside of that budget or want to buy a new car or take a trip or maybe even need (very costly) long term care. This is why I am not incorporating the fact that your inflation adjusted return is 5% – so your money is still growing by 5% annually – not to mention there are a lot of reasons we use the 4% of your income figure.
When it comes to the process of saving this – it sounds so hard, because it sounds like so much money. I want to remind you that the money you are investing is compounding, and it will do a lot of this heavy lifting for you (especially the earlier that you invest it). This is why you see the money grow exponentially in the last few years – because it is getting a rate of return on all that money you have accumulated. Your portfolio is doing a lot of the saving for you. There is a rule in finance called the rule of 72, which pretty much says that if you are getting at least a 7.2% annual return then your money should double every 10 years. If you take another look at the chart with that rule in mind – it will really demonstrate how much work the portfolio is doing (especially since the average return of the S&P500 is 10% – way higher than the 7.2 needed to double your money) This is the absolute ideal if you are living just of your portfolio, this does not incorporate Social Security income or pensions. Those could majorly impact your retirement plan positively, but it is always best to plan as conservative as possible. But it is also not incorporated that as you get older your investments will get percentagewise more conservative which will lower your rate of return. Emphasizing that this is the IDEAL and not always achievable – factors such as Social Security or inheritance will help fill gaps.



Why Your Emergency Fund Should NOT be in a Savings Account
Keeping emergency funds in traditional savings accounts is outdated and costly. While this advice made sense when savings accounts offered decent returns, today’s financial landscape tells a different story. With most savings accounts offering interest rates below 1% while inflation hovers around 3-4%, your emergency fund is actually losing purchasing power every year.
Money market accounts provide the perfect balance of accessibility and returns for emergency funds. Unlike savings accounts, they typically offer interest rates of 4-5% or higher, often matching or exceeding current inflation rates. Your money remains FDIC-insured up to $250,000, and you can still access funds quickly when emergencies strike. Many money market accounts offer debit cards and check-writing privileges, making them as convenient as traditional savings accounts.
If you prefer the simplicity of a savings account, at least move your emergency fund to a high-yield online savings account. Online banks can offer rates 10-15 times higher than traditional brick-and-mortar institutions because they have lower overhead costs. While 4-5% interest might not make you rich, it prevents your emergency fund from hemorrhaging value to inflation. A $10,000 emergency fund in a 0.5% savings account earns just $50 annually. That same amount in a 4.5% money market account generates $450 – a difference of $400 per year. Over five years, that’s $2,000 in lost potential earnings.
Emergency funds serve a crucial purpose, but that doesn’t mean they should languish in low-yield accounts. By choosing smarter alternatives that maintain liquidity while offering competitive returns, you can protect your emergency fund’s purchasing power without sacrificing accessibility. Your future self will thank you for making this simple but impactful change.
HSA’s: The ULTIMATE Retirement Account
Most people think of Health Savings Accounts (HSAs) as simply a way to pay for medical expenses with pre-tax dollars, but savvy investors know the truth: HSAs are actually the most powerful retirement savings vehicle available to Americans today.
HSAs offer an unmatched triple tax benefit that no other account can match – your contributions are tax-deductible, your money grows tax-free, and withdrawals for qualified medical expenses are completely tax-free. Even traditional 401(k)s and IRAs only offer two of these three benefits. Here’s where HSAs become retirement gold: after age 65, you can withdraw money for any purpose without penalties. While you’ll pay income tax on non-medical withdrawals (just like a traditional IRA), you still get decades of tax-free growth plus the option for tax-free medical withdrawals.
Given that the average retiree spends over $300,000 on healthcare throughout retirement, having a dedicated tax-free fund for these expenses is invaluable. Unlike Flexible Spending Accounts (FSAs) that follow “use it or lose it” rules, HSA funds roll over indefinitely. Most HSA providers allow you to invest your balance in mutual funds and ETFs once you reach a minimum threshold, typically $1,000-$2,000. This means you can treat your HSA like a retirement account for decades, letting compound growth work its magic while keeping receipts for medical expenses you’ve already paid out-of-pocket.
To unlock the HSA’s full potential, contribute the maximum amount annually ($4,300 for individuals, $8,550 for families in 2024, plus $1,000 catch-up if you’re 55+). Pay current medical expenses out-of-pocket when possible, save your receipts, and let your HSA balance grow invested. Years later, you can reimburse yourself tax-free for those old medical expenses, or simply use the funds for retirement living expenses after 65.
For those eligible, HSAs represent the ultimate combination of healthcare security and retirement wealth building—making them truly the best retirement account you’re probably not maximizing. The key to HSA success lies in changing your mindset from short-term medical expense coverage to long-term wealth accumulation. Consider this: if you contribute the maximum to an HSA for 30 years and earn a modest 7% annual return, you could accumulate over $600,000 tax-free. That’s retirement security that goes far beyond what traditional accounts can offer.
The beauty of HSAs is their flexibility—they serve dual purposes as both healthcare funds and retirement vehicles. Smart investors view every dollar contributed to an HSA as buying both future medical security and tax-free retirement income, making HSAs the ultimate financial planning tool. Please keep in mind that you are only eligible for an HSA if you have a high-deductible health insurance plan.




Why Paying off your Mortgage isn’t always the best idea (for most)
The dream of burning your mortgage papers might seem appealing, but rushing to pay off your home loan early could be costing you money. The decision hinges largely on one crucial factor: your mortgage interest rate compared to potential investment returns.
If your mortgage rate sits at 3% or lower, you’re essentially borrowing money at a historically cheap rate. Meanwhile, the stock market has averaged around 10% annual returns over the long term. This creates an opportunity cost – every extra dollar you throw at your mortgage could potentially earn 7% more in the market. Even after accounting for taxes and market volatility, this mathematical advantage is compelling for many homeowners.
Consider the numbers: $500,000 invested at 8% grows to over $5 million in 30 years, while the same amount at 3% reaches only $1.2 million. That’s nearly $4 million in opportunity cost. The power of compound interest amplifies this gap exponentially over time, making the difference between paying off debt versus investing particularly stark for younger homeowners with decades ahead of them.
Tax considerations further complicate the equation. Mortgage interest remains tax-deductible for many homeowners, effectively reducing their borrowing cost. Meanwhile, investment gains face capital gains taxes, though long-term rates are typically favorable. The after-tax return differential still favors investing for most people with low-rate mortgages.
However, if you’re carrying a mortgage at 6% or higher, the calculus shifts. Guaranteed savings from early payoff become more attractive when competing against uncertain market gains, especially after considering investment taxes and fees.
Homeownership does offer one significant benefit that renters miss: protection against housing cost inflation. Your fixed mortgage payment remains constant while rental prices climb year after year. In many markets, rent increases of 3-5% annually are common, meaning your $2,000 monthly payment stays locked while your neighbor’s rent jumps to $2,400, then $2,500, and beyond.
This stability becomes increasingly valuable over time, effectively making your housing costs cheaper in real terms as your income hopefully grows with inflation.
Before getting too comfortable with homeownership’s apparent advantages, remember that property taxes, insurance, and maintenance costs don’t remain frozen. Your “stable” housing payment can still increase through rising property taxes and insurance premiums.
More significantly, major home repairs can devastate budgets without warning. A new HVAC system runs $5,000-$15,000, while roof replacement can cost $15,000-$30,000 or more. These aren’t optional expenses – they’re inevitable realities of homeownership that renters never face.
For most people with low mortgage rates, investing extra funds in diversified portfolios makes more financial sense than accelerating mortgage payments. The key is maintaining adequate emergency funds for those surprise repair bills while letting compound interest work in your favor.
The peace of mind from owning your home outright has real value, but it often comes at a significant opportunity cost that’s worth calculating before making the leap.






The Hidden Cost of Homeownership: Your Opportunity Cost
The rent-versus-buy debate isn’t just about lifestyle preferences – it’s a complex financial equation that can impact your wealth for decades. While conventional wisdom often favors homeownership, the math tells a more nuanced story.
Renting’s biggest financial drawback is relentless cost inflation. A $2,000 monthly rent with typical 3% annual increases becomes $4,854 after 30 years. Over three decades, you’d pay approximately $2.8 million in rent with no equity to show for it. Meanwhile, a fixed $2,000 mortgage payment never changes, providing predictable housing costs as your income hopefully grows.
However, homeownership brings expenses that renters never face. Beyond the mortgage, expect added costs annually in maintenance, repairs, property taxes, and insurance. Major repairs hit harder – a new roof costs $15,000-30,000, while HVAC replacement runs $5,000-15,000. These aren’t optional expenses; they’re inevitable realities that can derail budgets.
The biggest factor most people overlook is opportunity cost. If you’re putting 20% down on a $400,000 home, that’s $80,000 that could be invested. Historical stock market returns of 8-10% annually mean this money could grow to $800,000 over 30 years. Additionally, mortgage payments include principal that builds equity, but early payments are mostly interest.
Here’s the crucial caveat: renting only maintains its financial advantage if you actually invest that down payment money and continue saving at similar rates. An $80,000 investment growing at 8% annually generates enough returns to offset rent increases indefinitely. However, if you spend that money instead of investing it, you lose this mathematical edge entirely. The renting advantage disappears without the discipline to consistently invest the difference between your rent and what mortgage payments would have been.
Buying makes financial sense if you’re staying put for 7+ years and can handle maintenance costs without sacrificing other financial goals. Renting wins financially only if you have the discipline to invest your down payment and consistently save the difference between rent and mortgage payments. Without this investment discipline, the forced savings aspect of mortgage payments often makes buying the better wealth-building strategy.
The “right” choice depends on your timeline, market conditions, investment discipline, and personal financial priorities rather than blanket rules about building equity.
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